We
are Residential Carpenters Local Union #1233 serving Pittsburgh and
southwestern Pennsylvania.
New homes must be built for growing populations,
and old homes must be renovated or replaced with
new, more efficient ones.
It takes a lot of
skilled carpenters to create or renovate these
structures expertly and efficiently. Residential
carpentry is a challenging career because of the
new building products, new styles, new tools,
new technology and hard work which goes into today’s housing
industry.
Housing contractors are always seeking
good residential carpenters.
Residential carpenters are also
considered “master
builders,” because they are the primary craft
workers on homes, apartments, and condos. They
assemble and erect the framework of residences;
they install the floors, build the walls,
construct the roofs, and do much of the finish work, often staying on
a particular job until it’s finished. The
residential carpenter is an all-around carpenter
who has experience in just about every aspect of
residential construction.
If you have any questions or
comments for Local 1233's Website Committee please use the form
on the Website Committee
page or bring it to their
attention at the next union meeting.
“Hollow-metal doors and frames are
strong, stable, secure, and fire-resistant, which is why union
carpenters routinely install them in hospitals, schools, hotels,
and other buildings. When installing a hollow-metal door frame
in a metal-framed partition, attached anchors make it easy to
fasten the jambs to the floor and to screw the neighboring metal
studs to the jambs. As you screw the studs to these anchors,
though, you need to make sure the jambs are perfectly centered
so drywall can tuck neatly behind the lip of the frame on both
sides of the wall.
“Centering the jambs is easily accomplished solo using the
simple homemade spacer shown here. It consists of three lengths
of 1/2-inch copper water-supply pipe joined with two 90-degree
copper fittings. I size the center piece of pipe so the
assembled spacer will fit snugly inside the jambs, and solder
the joints or secure them with Type S-12 pan-head screws.
“At the bottom of each jamb, use
the spacer for aligning the jamb to the bottom track of the wall
before fastening the jamb to the floor (photo above), which in
turn will make it easy to center the bottom of the neighboring
stud when it’s screwed to the jamb. Up top, after the stud is
installed, center the jamb by reversing the spacer and slipping
it over the stud (photo above). The outside diameter of the
1/2-inch pipe is 5/8 inches, which yields the perfect clearance
for 5/8-inch drywall. The spacer works so well that it’s used in
the Commercial Door Hardware class at the Louisville campus of
the Indiana/Kentucky State District Council of Carpenters JATC.”
—Gary Muncy, member of Carpenter
Local 64 in Louisville, Ky.